Day of Hell!

Do I have to tell you how hard it is to travel with four young children in India?? It seems I haven't been able to keep up with the blogging as much as i would have liked, but I do the best I can.

We arrived in Dubai around 11:30pm last night, but our day started in BodyGaya, home of the Bodhi tree, at 4:00AM!!! We got dressed and jumped in the car to drive 4 hours to the nearest airport. It was the day of HELL!! The road was so bad with pot holes and bumps that it was like bad turbulance the whole way. I think it was only 100 Kilometers but we were stopped for cows, trains, overloaded buses, people, you name it....it was in our way. Bouncing around in the car was not good on the kids tummy's Bella threw up about 4 times and Julian 2 times. We were in a hurry to make our flight, that i had Bella just hang her head out the window and throw up all over the car. Did I tell you it was Four hours!!! Finally, our awsome driver/guide got us to the airport. As we raced around to unload the car and kids we found out the plane was delayed THREE hours!! Would have been nice to know that.

We filled in the wait with lunch at 10am and letting the kids run around the airport. Finally we board the plane and fly off to Delhi. Originally we were going to have a 5 1/2 hour wait in Delhi for our connecting flight to Dubai, but because of the delay we arrived with just 30 minutes. So....we missed our flight to Dubai. Still in my stinky clothes from the kids throw up, we went back and fourth between the airlines to see if anyone could help us get to Dubai. India is know as a very corrupt country and they definetly don't do favors. I took the kids to eat while Mark and another kind private citizen tried to work the system. After TWO hours, it seemed the only option was to buy one way tickets to Dubai out of our own pocket and catch the 8:30 flight out. Run, run, run, wait, wait, wait. Still in stinky clothes, we waited an hour for them to print up the tickets which cost us another Thousand dollars. Then it's security and customs. They have very specific ways of doing things in India. Women go one way and men go another for security. So with a sleeping baby in my arms I yell at Lotus to follow and throw my bags on the security belt. We are patted down and then collect the bags. Each carry on bag needs a security stamp. At the gate as we prepare to board a bus to take us to the plane we discover that security didn't stamp one of the bags and Mark has to go back to security to get the stamp.. To wrap it up, we get on the plane, kids finally fall asleep and we fly 4 hours to Dubai. At night Dubai was lit up with lights, the sky line is littered with high rises. It looks impressive. The airport was modern and clean, a mix of cultures, Arabs and Westerners seeming to live in harmony. Everyone was smily and helpful. We collected our bags and met up with our driver who drove us to a condo which belongs to Mark's brother's friend, Hanni. It is a beautiful 2 bedroom condo, overlooking the marina. The weather is warm, the air is clear and life is good.

I finally took a shower and got our of the stinky clothes. Yuck. Today we are resting, laundry, and a few naps. Tonight we might go to the desert for belly dancing.

The Bodhi Tree

Julian, Bella and Lotus and I all woke around 5:30am. Mark and Bodhi were in another room. We waited until 6am and went downstairs to look outside and decided to take a little look around town. We jumped in a rickshaw and asked to go to the Bodhi Tree. It was a brisk morning, a little cooler than at Varanasi. The small village town of BodhGaya was home of the Bodhi Tree, the spot where Buddha reached enlightenment. It was a quaint country town, pretty trees lined the streets. The road curved around golden buddha temples and countries from around the world had their temple here. Young boys sold bright pink lotus flowers for offerings in the early morning. They followed us as we rode along. ( I bought 2 bunches on the way home) After a ten minute ride we arrived at the Burmese temple and the driver gestured for us to get out. I looked at him in confusion and tried to confirm this was the Bodhi tree. Another boy walking by who spoke english helped clarify the matter. Another 5 minute bike ride, past chickens, cows, and goats we drove down a small alley where people were cooking breakfast. They all stared at the sight of blond, westerns riding through their town. We arrived to the entrance of the Main Temple. We decided to wait and enter as a whole family so we went back to the hotel. Mark and Bodhi were now awake, we had breakfast and went out to see the Bodhi Tree. We decided to walk because it was pretty close. However walking the streets of BodhGaya with Bodhi and Lotus is like walking with Julia Roberts and Brad Pitt. We were swarmed with fans who wanted to touch, hold or photograph the pair. i think it was Bodhi's hair and Lotus's karma that people were drawn too. It was a little intimidating. Bella was scared and clung to me as we made out way to the temple. Beggars asked for money and men offered all kinds on goods at discount prices. Once through the gates of the temple they seemed to stop and not follow us. We had to pay a fee to use our cameras. We spent 2 hours at the temple trying to get the perfect photo of Bodhi and his tree. Again, monks and visitors all continued to want to touch the children. One monk held Julian's arm for 15 minutes. The Bodhi tree is a ficus tree located at the back of the temple. It is surrounded by a stone fence. One area has buddha's footprints in stone. The whole place is surrounded by monks in prayer or doing some type of yoga movement. Asian television interviewed us on what we thought of the tree. Look for it!! Pam sat next to the tree the whole time and donated money to a monk going around looking for donations.

We got some great photos and Bodhi saw his tree, afterwards it was too much to go out with all the kids so we went back to the hotel to have lunch and let Pam watch the kids while Mark and I went out. However, our ATM wouldn't work and their was only one ATM in BodyGaya. While we waited inside the bank i met a western woman from Denmark who was married to an Indian man and they had a child. She was trying to help us with the ATM. While her husband tried to help Mark the Danish women, named Camilla, told me her husband and her ran an orphanage and school for poor children. It just so happened I had one bag left of school supplies. We had planned on going to their home and meeting the kids but it was getting too late and we had an early morning to catch a plane back to Delhi. So unfortunately I handed over the bag of supplies and we exchanged contact information and hope to continue our relationship of support.

On the plus side I told Islam, the Camilla's husband about Bella and her cold sore's, he took us to a local auyvedic doctor who checked her out and gave her some herbs to take three times a day and it should clear up forever....let's hope. For most of this trip Bella has had her whole bottom lip full of cold sore's. It is an ongoing problem in her life. Let's hope it works.

The Ganges

Today will forever be one of the best memories of my life.

I woke up at 4:45AM to meet our guide for a sunrise boat ride on the sacred river Gange. Mark thought it was too early so he decided to skip it and stay with the kids. Pam came with me. Our guide didn't show, so we jumped on a bike rickshaw and headed down to the river. The roads were busy, cars, rickshaws and people walking all headed in one direction. After about 15 minutes the rickshaw pulled over and told us the rest of the way was on foot. Another english speaking Indian named Shambhu walked with us and assigned himself to us to be our guide. Which we actually appreciated. Today we were told was a special day of puja (prayer) So thousands of people would be at the river. He was right it was a sea of people. Fortunately our guide wiggled our way through, down the ghat's of stairs to the river edge where we jumped on a wooden boat. Rowed by another man at the front of the boat. For the next hour we toured up and down along the river edge witness to a sacred moment to people who had travelled from far away to pray for their families well being. It was a colorful sight.


As i sat on the boat with my birth mother, on the sacred river ganges in the beautiful country of India I thought about miracles. Was it not a miracle for her and I to share this moment? Did she ever think when she had to make that painful decision to give me up that she would see me again and witness the beauty of this moment? As the sun rose the chanting became louder the group of people parked at the water edge moved with excitement, it was as if a celebrity had walked in the room. It was a beautiful sun and all put together a moment forever etched in my memory. I look forward to the day i can return.

After the boat ride our guide took us to a guru and for a small fee was told the purpose of me life, with which i was told not to discuss it with anyone. He was a wise man who smoked cigarettes and answered his cell phone when it rang. He was a powerful being who gave me his cell phone and email address for future work. I returned back to the hotel to Mark and the kids with a renewed sense of life and appreciation for my family.

Oh so tired.

sorry I couldn't update yesterday, but it was on the go from 2:30am (that's in the wee mornin' hours) until we returned to our hotel room around 12:30pm (that's the next morning) It was a day based on a day trip to see the Taj Mahal. The quickest way to get to the town of Agra is by train which leaves only at 6am and returns only at 8pm. It is an express train that takes 2 hours.

The kids are off schedule so they woke up at 2:30 and for the next 2 hours I yelled, threatened and growled at them to SLEEP. We didn't. So up and off we went to the train station. Even at 5am, a hustling, intimidating place of people on the go. Upon arrival we learned our train was delayed an hour. So for an hour we tried our best to keep the kids off the station floor. Not an easy job. The train ride was fun for the kids. Smooth, water and snack provided. Bathroom is a whole different story. Bella took pictures. We arrived in Agra and were instantly swarmed by people offering taxi rides. Because we couldn't find our guide, and seven white, tourist's lost, we were fresh bait! Luckily our guide found us. We went to a nice hotel to freshen up and grab a bite to eat. Then off to the Taj Mahal. It's like a giant, amazing sand sculpture that arises from the earth. The white marble is breath taking. It is just a beautiful site. Huge, detailed, presence that captures your attention immediately. Mark was in awe! We had a guide take us around. Inside, was dark, cramped, hot and gave me the feeling of being trapped. The architecure was beautiful and to think it was built around 500 years ago. Try explaining that concept to kids!

We spent about 3 hours there. Most of the time was stopping for people to touch or take photos of Bodhi, our little famous family member. They LOVE him here. The blond hair and blue eyes. All ages, sexes, casts are drawn to him. We also took advantage of photographing the people of India. I love the faces of people. We were all pretty tired after so we went back to the hotel and refreshed. We still had 4 hours to waste until our return train. So we drove to a local orphanage called Mother Theresa Orphanage with 40 children and an attached adult section. All my kids fell asleep on the way there, so it was only Mark and I. Upon arrival we had little children come out and pull us to play with them. Quite a different experience than the government one in Delhi Inside we found a room of children on the floor. Babies under one year of age and some special needs older boys playing together on the floor. I had 3 small children follow me around gesturing for me to take their photo and then show them the digital image in my camera. I was able to hold some of the babies. Little girls about Bodhi's age. One little girl kept placing her forehead on my forehead. Almost like a kiss. Another little girl clung like a monkey and wouldn't let me put her down. A little four month old baby girl smiled and cooed. She was so pretty. We stayed for about 30 minutes. I donated some items, thank you Lauren and the Healds. And gave them what they wanted most which was money for food.

The kids continued to sleep so our guide offered for them to go to his house, which he shares with his family and new wife, so the kids could sleep in a bed. It was a wonderful gift to visit with a local Indian family and it turns out his sister in law had a handicrafts store upstairs. So while, Mark and the kids napped, Pam and I shopped. I had 3 sari's custom made and delivered to our hotel in Delhi within 12 hours! Thank you Amarash. and his family. Finally time to get to the train and back to Delhi.

Today we are in Varanassi, the holiest city in India. Will update tomrrow..........

First day in Delhi

Well after a crazy time warp to another place and time, we arrived in Delhi late last night. All flights were fine, no real problems. Kids kind of slept on the plane, Mark looked cozy at times, I on the other hand, had Bodhi on me most of the night. After catching a few zzzz's on the fourteen hour flight, we arrived at 9pm. The kids felt like it was time to party. They cleaned up and ate dinner in the room and eventually went to bed around midnight Delhi time. Mark had Lotus and Julian, I had Bodhi and Bella in my room. Bodhi woke up at 3:30am and stayed awake until 5:30am!! I had to knock on Mark's door to put Bella in there so she could get some sleep. Eventually he fell asleep and I did too.

Next morning we woke and had breakfast around 9:30am. Buffet with every thing you could dream of eating and MORE!! Exotic fruits and traditional Indian fare. I stuck to good old scramble eggs on toast. We cleaned up and jumped in our mini bus with driver and guide. I found the local orphanage and after an exciting drive through narrow, dusty, alley's and cluster's of people and sights. We arrived at the Arya orphanage. An institutional looking building with little faces eagerly looking over the balcony's. We were taken to the office were we met the director. She told us they have 1,000 (ONE THOUSAND) children. From age 4 to 18. As we sat in the office a pool of children collected outside the entrance, smiling and watching. When we asked what the orphanage needed they suggested cash donation so they could buy rice, flour and maize. They said it costs about 1000 rupees ($20) a month to feed one child!! On our tour of the orphanage we saw the kitchen with huge barrels of cooked rice. That was all i saw for lunch. The kids were dirty looking, no shoes, dirty teeth, it looked like the clothes they were wearing were worn day and night for a month. At first the kids wanted their photo taken, then they walked away when we tried to take photos. I wonder if they wanted a reward or something. On our tour we were taken to the kitchen, very clean and the nurse's station, no kids sick! This surprised me, also clean. And finally a large room lined with bunk beds. Must have been about 15-20 bunks in their. Also perfect looking. We think maybe we were given the "for show" tour.

We sat and played outside on a nice, tree lined courtyard. The building was a four levels rimmed with balcanies. Kids watched from above as we wondered around. I was told that some kids have mom's who visit, couldn't tell if it was once a year or month. Overall, there was laughter, shy children and outgoing children. Julian and Bella were reserved. They said they felt scared and shy. Everyone in India loves Bodhi, I think it is the white, blond hair. As we drove away i felt a sadness, I wish I could bring so much more to these little lives. Birthday celebration perhaps or a sense of belonging. I don't know...I settle with the thought that for today they enjoyed a visit from some people far away.

We finished off the rest of the day touring the city of it's historical sites. Humayun's tomb, built in 1567 it was built by a emperor's wife as a resting place for her husband. It is what the Taj Mahal copied. We also went to a modern temple called the Baha'i House of Worship or Lotus Temple. It is a huge structure in the shape of a Lotus flower. Of course we took Lotus here. We had to take off our shoes and enter silently in a single line. Inside was amazing. HUGE ceilings, and a feeling of a day at the spa. We had to go potty, so I took Bella and Lotus. It was one of those holes in the floor type. It was funny watching Bella try to figure out where to put her feet and her butt to pee in the hole. Lastly we went to the India Arch, gateway to India. A memorial to WW2 soldiers. There, I was suckered into letting the kids get their hands painted bindi style. I think this is what it is called, the black, intricate hand paint.

Back to hotel, shower, dinner and now wrap it up for the all day tour of Taj Mahal tomorrow.